Underneath the Manhattan Bridge: Golden Diner Does Not Give Up
“As long as we're able to open responsibly and safely, we will.”
Golden Diner chef and owner Samuel Yoo prepares his homemade granola with pumpkin seeds, cranberries, flax seeds and orange zest alongside orders such as the restaurant’s signature “Chinatown egg and cheese sando” with soft scrambled eggs, American cheese and a hashbrown patty served on a sesame scallion milk bun. At the time of publication, Golden Diner remains open for pickup and delivery by calling 917.472.7800. Photo by Alexandria Misch (August 2019)
In 2019, former Momofuku Ko cook Samuel Yoo thrilled critics and diner enthusiasts by quietly opening a self-described “Asian diner” under the Manhattan Bridge. Now, Golden Diner—which was recently named a semifinalist for the 2020 James Beard Foundation “Best New Restaurant” award—is one of few restaurants left open in the neighborhood—let alone the city—during the COVID-19 crisis.
CANAL STREET NEWS: Can you describe a typical day at Golden Diner during the COVID-19 crisis? What is it like to work in your restaurant right now?
SAMUEL YOO: Shifting to delivery/takeout felt like opening a new restaurant. A lot of systems, workflows and number of people we had in place only made sense for the dine-in model, so we had to rejig a lot—including a lot of collaboration with our extended community. What you see walking in doesn't look too different, though, aside from the obvious lack of customers.
CSN: And what is life for you like? You live in the area, right? How are you spending your time outside of Golden Diner?
SY: I live 20 minutes walking distance from Golden [Diner]. I'm coming home a little more tired than usual, but I try to keep a semblance of normalcy with my personal routines.
CSN: You had been having an incredible first year—from a New Yorker writeup to being named one of the only New York City semifinalists for the 2020 “Best New Restaurant” James Beard Award—but now your business is in the midst of a pandemic. How are you feeling about the future of your restaurant and the industry as a whole?
SY: Yes, it was really unexpected. I mean, we had ambitions, but the reception was still surprising. Honestly, it's been so busy day-to-day I don't think we've really taken it in yet.
In terms of the future of the industry, there's just too much up in the air for anyone to really know. What I hope for is hospitality industry specific government relief. Also, for this feeling of camaraderie and goodwill between us to last.
CSN: How about your team? How are they coping with everything? Are people staying positive in the kitchen during quarantine times?
SY: The team is staying positive and really stepping up to a challenging situation with good energy even though there's more work to be done. I'm really proud of working with our team.
CSN: How has business been? Was it difficult to pivot to takeout and delivery only?
SY: The decision to stay open and that first week after the shutdown was really tough. Pivoting to takeout/delivery isn't as simple as it sounds, it changes the entire flow of work for everyone. It's just now starting to feel like we have some footing, three weeks in.
CSN: Since then, you started offering cocktails and other spirits to go. Do alcohol orders help keep you afloat?
SY: Yes, adding alcohol helps boost sales but they don't keep us afloat. Partnering with good organizations—and our amazing regulars—are what's keeping us afloat.
CSN: Are you receiving enough orders to survive? Is the takeout model sustainable for a restaurant like yours?
SY: Right now, we are making enough to pay our remaining employees, which is most important. It's absolutely not sustainable for the vast majority of restaurants in the long run.
CSN: Since you’re a small operation to start, did you have to lay off staff?
SY: Unfortunately, yes, we had to lay off a few of our staff including those who didn't feel comfortable coming in to work anymore, but we were able to hold on to a majority of the crew and are actively working to bring people back each week.
CSN: Have you considered closing? What would that mean for you and your employees?
SY: Of course! I want to take care of my team and our community who depend on us, so as long as we're able to open responsibly and safely, we will.
CSN: What kind of aid would you like to see from the local or federal government, if any?
SY: Ideally, seeing the number of people who are and will be impacted, hospitality should have one of the biggest relief packages.
CSN: Aside from ordering food and drinks, how can people support Golden Diner during this time?
SY: Just keep ordering and supporting local [businesses]. Cut out third party delivery wherever possible. Fight for the legislative change we need. Take care of your community and do what you can to protect those most vulnerable.
CSN: Do you have any messages of hope for the food world right now?
SY: We are resilient.
Golden Diner sits at the corner of Market and Madison Streets in Chinatown. You can order food and drinks at 917.472.7800 or pick up from 123 Madison Street New York, NY 10002. As of April 12, 2020, the restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until 10 p.m. Check Instagram for updates.
